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Blog written by two Prague residents about life in the Czech Republic.

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Oooolong, Lapsang Souchong and All the Others

June 24, 2006 By Dana Leave a Comment

When I was a little girl growing up in Czechoslovakia, tea was tea. Cheap black tea from China, India or Ceylon was all we could get. The container said “Čaj”. When you asked for tea, you knew what was coming.

Those times are over. Capitalism arrived and brought with it all sorts of new things. Fruit flavored Pickwick teas were some of the first “bourgeois” arrivals that hit the young Czech market in the early 1990s. They woke up the lethargic Czech tea-drinking nation to a brand new, exciting era of a seemingly limitless selection of tea varieties, flavors and brands that now fill the shelves of supermarkets and specialty tea stores.

Asking for tea is no longer simple business. When I’m ordering tea at a Czech restaurant these days, I’m used to being asked, “Black, fruit or green?”, not necessarily in that order. I was recently at a Prague pizzeria and ordered tea. A container full of tea packets arrived at the table. Lemon, orange and spice, green, chamomile, peach, cinnamon, strawberry, mint… Not a single packet of normal black tea. But again, what is normal? Which reminds me, the same pizzeria used to serve tea in large, thick-glass beer mugs. I loved it. To my great disappointment, the beer mugs were later replaced by boring, fancy tea cups. Oh well.

70 Cent Soup

June 15, 2006 By Dana 3 Comments

Jeff and I have gone out for a typical Czech lunch a few times lately. Many restaurants in Prague and elsewhere in the Czech Republic have a special lunch menu (usually called polední menu), which is valid during a specific time period – e.g. from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. – and consists of a limited number of menu items that are often smaller in quantity and cheap. Very cheap. You can get a full meal for under 100 CZK (3 – 4 EUR, 4 – 5 USD) even if the restaurant charges two or three times more for a dinner course. The point is to attract people from nearby offices to come down on their lunch break. The lunch menu usually changes during the week, so you don’t find the same selection every day.

Some restaurants keep their lunch menus focused on the cuisine in which they specialize. For example the lunch menu of a Thai restaurant may consist of smaller and cheaper versions of pad thai or curry dishes. Others follow the Czech tradition and create menus that include popular Czech standbies like roast pork with dumplings and sauerkraut, goulash, Viener schnitzel with boiled potatoes, meatloaf with mashed potatoes, fried cheese with fries, fried mushrooms with fries, fried cauliflower with fries… And soup. Czechs love their soup and the chefs know it.

I had my fair share of these typical Czech lunches back when I had a nine-to-five job in the Old Town. I’ve eaten fried mushrooms with fries too many times. But that was ten years ago and I’ve almost forgotten about the convenience and comfort of a quick Czech lunch. The steaming soup is brought to your table two minutes after you order it, the beer is nice and fresh and the pork chops with rice taste exactly how you remember them from your school cafeteria.

Jeff and I have decided to explore the restaurants in our neighborhood and see what their lunches are like. So far we have made several promising discoveries. I’m starting to wonder, why cook at home when you can get a perfectly fine meal AND fresh beer at a restaurant, you don’t have to do the dishes, and the soup costs 70 cents?

(The bill in the picture above is for two soups, a 0.3 liter Hoegaarden beer, a mineral water and two main courses. The total came to 193 CZK – about 9 USD/7 EUR).

A Bite to Eat in Josefov

April 19, 2006 By Dana Leave a Comment

The other day I had the best chicken sandwich in a long time. It came with aioli, lettuce, tomatoes, caramelized onions and spices on fresh, home made bread and it was delicious from the first bite to the last. You can enjoy your own at the Dinitz Restaurant on Bílkova 12 in the Jewish Quarter. It’s open Monday – Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. It was my first time there (not including a takeout sandwich once, which was also very good), so I don’t feel comfortable giving the place a full plug at this point. I’ll need to go back once or twice. Rough life, I know. Anyway, do try it out if you get hungry on your wanders around Josefov.

Three Prague Restaurants Featured in 2006 Michelin Guide

April 9, 2006 By Jeff 3 Comments

The latest edition of the Michelin Guide Main Cities of Europe, which covers hotels and restaurants, was published last month. The guide is famous for its 1 – 2 – 3 star restaurant rating system and it also includes a rating called Bib Gourmand, which highlights “good food at moderate prices”. Prague did not have any restaurants that received stars in the 2006 Edition, but three restaurants were awarded a Bib Gourmand: Aromi and Brasserie M (new additions), and Le Terroir.

The restaurants in the guide are geared toward business travelers, so I think that in this case the term “moderate prices” simply means that the restaurants do not fall into the top price bracket. Aromi has been on my list for a while now and I think it is time for a visit.

For our comments on some less expensive, but good restaurants in Prague, you can see our Prague Restaurants section on My Czech Republic.

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