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The Islands of Prague: Střelecký ostrov (Shooters Island)

July 4, 2019 By Dana Leave a Comment

Střelecký ostrov (Shooters Island) is one of several islands on the Vltava River in Prague. Locals come here to relax, have a picnic or attend an outdoor event. If you’d like to get away from the noise of the city, this is a place to consider. On hot summer days, you’ll enjoy cooling off in the shade of magnificent trees. You can sit on a bench and watch boats go by. You can have a bite to eat or get a pint of beer at one of the outdoor stands. Kids will enjoy watching the swans and ducks on the river, running around or spending time at the playground. In the fall, the leaves on the trees change color and the scenery is breathtaking.

A view towards the Lesser Town Embankment
A view towards the Lesser Town Embankment
A path with benches and river access
A path with benches and river access
One of the food stands on Střelecký ostrov
One of the food stands on Střelecký ostrov

Why Shooters Island?

Are you wondering where Shooters Island got its name? It is actually a reminder of the purpose it served throughout history. Under Charles IV, long bow and crossbow shooters had the privilege of training here. Shooting competitions were held on the island from the 15th century. Thanks to the island’s strategic position within the city, shooters stationed there were able to defend the Old Town against enemy armies in the 17th and 18th centuries.

A view towards the Smetana Embankment on the Old Town side
A view towards the Smetana Embankment on the Old Town side
The National Theatre and Smetana Embankment from Shooters Island
The National Theatre and Smetana Embankment from Shooters Island

Getting There

You can access Střelecký ostrov easily from the Legion Bridge (most Legií). It’s the one that leads from the National Theatre on the Old Town side of the river to Újezd and the Petřín foothills on the Lesser Town side. To reach the island, walk about halfway across the bridge. You’ll then have two options of getting down to the island: descend a staircase or take an elevator. Walking from the National Theatre, the stairs are on the left side of the bridge and the elevator’s on the right. If you need the elevator, you may want to plan ahead and start your walk on the correct side of the bridge. That way you won’t have to cross the relatively busy street and tram tracks later.

Stairs going down to Střelecký ostrov
Stairs going down to Střelecký ostrov
Elevator between the island and street level
Elevator between the island and street level
On Legion Bridge (most Legií) looking towards the Old Town
On Legion Bridge (most Legií) looking towards the Old Town
On Legion Bridge looking towards Lesser Town
On Legion Bridge looking towards Lesser Town

The New Town Hall Tower

June 26, 2019 By Dana 2 Comments

Did you know that you can climb the New Town Hall tower on Karlovo náměstí? You can get a 360-degree view of the surrounding area. The tower is open Tuesday to Sunday from spring through fall. There are 221 steps leading to the viewing area. You can also visit the tiny quarters where the tower watchman used to live. His task was to watch for any fires in the city and sound a warning bell in case a fire was spotted. The rooms are not preserved in the original condition but house a permanent exhibition on the history of the New Town.

Here are some views from the tower:

While visiting the tower or even if you’re just passing by, stop by the eastern facade and look for a metal rod attached to the wall. This is the standard measurement for the Czech or rather Prague cubit. It is called loket in Czech, which means “elbow”. The loket was a measuring unit introduced by Czech king Přemysl Otakar II in 1268. It is 59.3 cm long and is supposed to represent the distance from the elbow to the fingertips. The metal rod was placed on the wall of the New Town Hall in 1760. Merchants used it as an exact measurement guide until the 19th century.

Trdlo – Say It Five Times Fast!

April 26, 2019 By Dana Leave a Comment

If you’ve been to Prague, you’ve probably seen them. It’s hard not to. They’re scattered all over the city center and there’s always at least one to be found at every Christmas and Easter market. Stands selling trdelník are a Prague icon.

Trdelník  or trdlo is a round, hollow pastry made from basic sweet yeast dough. Strips of the dough are wrapped around a metal rod and baked over hot wood coals. This typically happens right in front of you, so you can watch the process while you wait your turn in line. The finished pastry is then rolled in a mixture of sugar, cinnamon, crushed nuts, and vanilla. It can be dipped in chocolate.

Trdelník is usually presented as a traditional old Bohemian pastry, making it sound like a Czech invention. It is not originally Czech though. The pastry was first made by Hungarians in Transylvania (Romania) and later brought to the town of Skalica in Slovakia. Skalický trdelník even holds the European Union’s PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) denomination. The Hungarian  kürtöskalács (chimney cake) is just as much an icon in Hungary as trdelník is in the Czech Republic. In fact, you’ll find a similar pastry in many European countries – Sweden, Luxembourg, Latvia, Poland, and elsewhere.

Even though Czechs can’t claim the original trdelník, they have found a way of making it their own. In recent years, a new version of trdelník appeared in Prague. It is sweeter and much richer in calories. The secret of this Czech invention that became an instant hit is to simply close it up on one end to make a cone and then fill it with ice cream, Nutella, strawberries and whipped cream, or apple strudel filling.

If you feel like a snack or dessert as you stroll along the streets of Prague, remember to look for trdelník!

Turning our dům into a home

May 13, 2013 By Katia Sand Leave a Comment

Prague is known as one of the most beautiful and historic cities in the world. Millions of tourists visit every year to admire its architecture, absorb the culture and to drink the incredible beer. Tens of thousands of expats have stayed, unable to say goodbye to the city’s picturesque magic (and the beer). So moving to Prague sans home, sans job, and sans any knowledge of the Czech language can’t be that hard, right?

Now that we were down a suitcase or two of cash, we were in proud possession of a set of keys to our wonderful apartment: our wonderful and utterly empty apartment. I still needed to figure out how to move the remains of my university life in Scotland from Edinburgh to the Czech Republic. The more pressing concern, however, was how to avoid sleeping on the floor.

Alongside boxes and baskets of various sizes, my Scottish storage unit was also sheltering an orthopedic bed, so we were somewhat loath to purchase a new one. A little pressed for time and unsure of any Czech bed-shops, the easiest solution was to hop on a metro to Ikea, pick out an affordable yet comfortable sofa-bed that future guests would not turn up their noses at, and have it delivered that night. We duly headed to Zličín on the yellow B line and quickly discovered that Czech Ikea is as reliably all-inclusive and generic as any of its international counterparts, and has a large selection of bed/couch options.

We wandered past the usual culprits: sprung mattresses and awkward futons, as well as those fairly innocuous-looking sofa-beds that always mysteriously manage to shuffle their occupants to a dipped center. We finally discovered a hidden gem in the form of the Månstad, a three-seat sofa and chaise longue that folds out into a fairly hard but very comfortable double bed. When we could no longer deal with the show floor/warehouse separation in Ikea, we made our way to XXXLutz, another international furniture company about five minutes’ drive away from Zličín (though slightly more complicated to reach by public transport, as it is a bit of a walk from the nearest metro stop at Hůrka). Here we found a few more essential furniture pieces that were a bit more individual and only slightly more expensive than in Ikea.

Over the next few days, risking Kuba’s patience and my own mental health, we attempted to tick off all of the items on my nesting shopping list. Kitchen supplies we found aplenty in Domácí potřeby, a household goods store on the third floor of the Kotva shopping centre next to Námēstí Republiky in Prague 1. While in the neighborhood, we also browsed antique-style furniture in Art & Classic on Kotva’s 4th floor and more modern wooden pieces in Global Interio on Revoluční and in AlmiDecor on the top floor mezzanine in Palladium. However, we restrained ourselves to window-shopping, as these pieces, though lovely and relatively well priced, were a little outside our budget when it came to furnishing an entire apartment almost from scratch.

Kuba’s mother, hearing our woes regarding affordable and unique pieces of furniture, immediately directed us to www.aukro.cz, an online auction house and the Czech answer to eBay, where I discovered my bargain-hunting paradise. You can find almost anything on Aukro, but my favorite pages remain those dedicated to second-hand antique and antique-style furniture. The hours spent browsing, and the invariable tension surrounding the last few minutes of bidding on an item, were totally worth the pieces we ended up buying. As a word of warning, however, it takes about a week to register (and to receive your registration code in the mail), and the entire website, including the registration page, is exclusively in Czech. Despite the difficulties, however, part of the fun of browsing in a language you don’t understand is discovering items you didn’t even know you were looking for!

Unfortunately, the fun quickly disappears when you know exactly what you are looking for and are unable to communicate your wishes to the shop assistants, which is exactly what happened when I began shopping for curtains. I returned to Kotva, where a big soft-furnishings shop called ScanQuilt sells everything from towels and bedclothes to rugs and cushions. I quickly found a material that I liked, but had to resort to diagrams and hand-gestures to explain to the saleswoman what my window dimensions were and discover what the price would be. It was with great difficulty that she finally managed to help me understand that, while ScanQuilt sells curtain material, I would need to go to the Kotva seamstress to have the curtains made. I eventually managed to purchase the material and locate the seamstress, who is on the same floor as ScanQuilt, but hidden behind a children’s play area. Trying to explain the size of my windows and the depth of my desired curtain-hem was exhausting, and I went home hoping that the result would not be dollhouse-sized curtains. In fact, much to my relief, the curtains were finished in a week and all, happily, human-sized.

This process was all more or less complete in time for the arrival of my belongings from Edinburgh. I did a very thorough Internet search when it came to choosing a moving company, and asked for quotes from about twenty or so different international firms. While some failed to make any response at all, most of these companies gave me fairly similar quotes: one storage container of 240 cubic feet from Edinburgh to Prague would cost me about £1400, $2000, or 40,000 CZK. Hruby Moving were the first to respond. Nick Young became my personal contact and replied within a couple of hours to every query I had, arranged a delivery that took place exactly two weeks after I initially submitted my request for a quote, liaised with the Scottish storage company on my behalf to make sure everything was wrapped and packed carefully, and charged me a grand total of 22,700 CZK, roughly half every other quote I received.

When the delivery day came at last, the Hruby removal men were polite, exceedingly helpful and patient, waiting to take away all the packing debris while I emptied box after box onto the living room floor. When I began to feel overwhelmed by the growing mountains of clothing and books and random artifacts, most of which I didn’t even remember accumulating, I paid the guys (again in cash!) and let them go. I was alone with the chaos. Once Kuba got over his initial fear that my assortment of memorabilia wouldn’t leave any space for him to enter the apartment at all, we sorted through the mess and flattened the remaining boxes. I e-mailed Nick to ask if he knew of any dump sites we could take the rest of the large boxes, and the next day he called to ask if it was OK for the removal men to stop by in a couple of hours as they would be happy to dispose of the remaining debris on my behalf. Never say service is dead in the Czech Republic!

Katia is a Belgian native who studied in Scotland and went to work in America, where she met her Czech boyfriend. In September 2012 she moved to Prague to live with him and is quickly falling in love with the city as well. Her passions are travel and adventure and reading and writing about them!

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